The waves were breaking huge the other day after a storm had blown through and we hit the beach with our boogie boards. If you are reading this and don't know what a boogie board is, its like a long sturdy kickboard meant for laying on and riding the waves into shore. Once you start its hard to stop. This photo is from a much mellower day, and its blurry, but you get the idea.
Anyway, the thing I noticed about the wave-riders the other day, was the wide variety of ages and sizes of those who came in the water to play. Often its just the families with young kids and some teens splashing in the cold Atlantic, but the big waves proved too alluring to pass up for those who still had a playful spirit. It was heartening to see everyone catching their waves and smiling as they coasted into shore. Then, board in hand, they would head back out for more. The sound of the crashing waves was loud and constant, but then someone would catch a good one and a whooping holler would rise above the din. I couldn't help but smile, watching so many people spontaneously playing in the waves. It was a treat for the soul.
Not just a fad cause it's been going on so long (catch a wave, catch a wave)
All the surfers going strong
They said it wouldn't last too long
They'll eat their words with a fork and spoon
And watch 'em they'll hit the road and all be surfin' soon
And when they catch a wave they'll be sittin' on top of the world
~The Beach Boys
Walter Drummond by Ree
5 days ago